After a leisurly 7 days in Kyoto it was time to hit the road again. Armed with a 7-day rail pass, we went on a whirlwind tour of central Japan, primarily in Nagano prefecture.
First stop - Kanazawa: The train was uncharacteristically delayed by many hours, which meant we did not have all that much time to explore Kanazawa... but we got to check out what we came here for, which is the so-called 'Ninja Temple'. As we sadly found out, no Ninjas ever lived there, but it wsa built in a Ninja style, which was still very cool... lots of trap doors, secret passageways and various other means of faking out enemies.
Takayama: The next morning we hopped back on the train and head for Takayama, a gorgeous little mountain town with a population of only 68,000. We stayed at a youth hostel located at one of teh major temples. It was amazingly clean and comfortable, though with a few too many rules and regulations... they kicked us out each morning at 9:30, and lights out at 11.. those monks can be tough!!
Takayama was memorable for several reasons, first it is a truly charming town. It has retained a lot of the original architecture - low wooden buildings, narrow, winding streets and a lively market along the banks of the river. It gives you an idea of what life must have been like in the old days... before there was a Starbucks and a Prada on every corner. We spent a full day wandering and sampling the food... which brings us to the second highlight, the food!
First, we stumbled upon a fantastic little noodle shop, where Alanna had eaten 8 years prior, and remembered vividly. So it was great to experience it again together. The same woman was there cooking up her flavorful noodle dishes in a tiny, but extremely efficient kitchen. Takayama is also known for Hida Beef... something on par with Kobe beef, tasty and tender and very welcome after some of our meat experiences in China. We indulged in several streetside meat sticks as well as a heavenly meal of various cuts of Hida beef which we cooked at our table. Yummy!! Finally, we had the best pizza ever!! It may seem odd, but it is definitely worth a mention here as it was by far the best pizza we have ever had... and in this teeny tiny town, it was fantastic. The chef had surely spent some time in Italy and brought back the art to this charming town.
If you ever go to Takayama, go on an empty stomach, and bring your sneakers to walk off all the tasty treats.
Matsumoto: From Takayam, we actually had to take a bus... which turned out to be great because the transfer point for the bus was also a major destination for Onsens, Japanese hot springs. SO we jumped at the opportunity to take another soak, and this one was serious stuff. There was an assortment of about 6 different baths, varying in temperature... the hottest were intensly hot (too hot for us Onsen newbies to get into) and the cold back was a virtual ice-pit. It was heavenly...
With our muscles relaxed we hopped back on our bus and arrived in Matsumoto mid-afternoon. Matsumoto is best known as a castle town... aside from the major castle site, it is also just a great city to spend a couple of days in. It has a neat mix of old and new, quaint side streets next to jip shopping streets with swanky cafes and tasty pastry shops. Our favorite, which was aptly named Sweet, had some of the best pastries ever.
While a beautiful site, the castle was over-crowded and not much fun to walk through at the snails pace we were required to take.. so we bailed out of it early, but enjoyed the views from the outside... as well as of the moat, which had the absolute biggest carp we have ever seen.. this thing was a monster, and would not cooperate for the camera.. so we'll have to leave that one up to the imagination.
Tsumago & Magome: The last stop on before Tokyo, was definitely the highlight. The train ride took us through some absolutely beautiful mountain terrain, and we disembarked at the tiniest of train station, which was abloom with all kinds of wildflowers and the air was fresh and cool... this was a beautiful place.
The two towns we visited here are connected by the Nakasendo, which is an ancient post road that connects Tokyo and Kyoto. Many towns along the way have been restored and segments of the road are available for hiking. We stayed at a great little Minshuku, Japanese guest house, near the post-town Tsumago. The guest house was in a tiny post with just a small street and a handful of houses and small fisheries. Our hostess was an adorable women who provided us with two fantastic home-cooked meals each day. We enjoyed traditional Japanes meals of fish, vegetables, pickles and soup... all the ingredients were local and super fresh!
The main event was the hike from our litle town to Magome. We got started very early (very odd for us), but it was beautiful, as the air was cool and the light was just perfect. The walk itself was indescribable, the woods we hiked were truly magical, with towering pines, a crystal clear river running throughout, butterflies fluttering around, waterfalls and bridges... we encountered few people along the way, so it was super quiet and peaceful. It took us about 2 hrs to high the 7 kilometers to Magome.
The town itself consisted of one road, lined with shops and eateries, down a steep slope. The view from the top was spectacular as it was a bright, clear day. We sampled some local treats (of course) which included a grilled rice-icle drowned in walnut paste and green tea buns filled with sweet red bean paste (sounds gross, but tastes gooood).
The walk was so beautiful that we decided to walk back, instead of take the bus... and we found just as many opportunities to stop and take pictures, to gaze in awe at the scenery and to stop and just enjoy our surroundings.
Tsumago was in a similar vein, though definitely with its character as it was nesteled into the side of a mountain and didn't have quite the same touristy feel to it, as it was a bit more rustic and worn looking, but beautiful just the same.
After a good 10 hours of hiking and exploring the town, we returned to our cute hostess for another delicious meal... and as we dozed off to the sound of the crickets and rushing water we were bristling with excitement for our next and final stop of the trip Tokyo!
Tuesday, August 30, 2005
Wednesday, August 17, 2005
Days 35 - 40: Kyoto
The best way to open up our trip to Japan is with a little Haiku we composed for the occasion:
***********************
Finally Japan
No more spitting to be seen
Clean toilets await
***********************
While we felt it someone unnecessary to expand on the state of bathrooms in China, suffice it to say they were generally quite horrid - 'nuff said. Now before proceeding, we must emphasize that China was amazing and the people were absolutely wonderful, but one cannot deny the start contrast in cleanliness and noise levels between the two countries. So no offense is meant to China by our awe and wonder at the supreme cleanliness of Japan.
Our arrival in Kyoto was like a dream. We could hardly believe the train ride we took from Kansai airport to Kyoto.... quiet, airconditioned, clean, no spitting, no one pushing for seats... it was truly beautiful.
Finding money in Kyoto, however, was quite a trial. As we found out upon our arrival, we could not walk up to any old ATM in Japan to take out cash. A valuable lesson to learn at 12 AM!!
We spent a full week in Kyoto absorbing Japanese culture, food and taking in the sites. So bear with us here, we have a lot to share after 6 days. While we took in a fair number of temples, we spent far more time uncovering the street culture of Kyoto. While known for its historic richness, Kyoto is probably less appreciated by tourists for being a funky, laid back college town.
We spent a fair amount of time wandering the old Geisha district as well as the canal side, Ponchodori street, known for exclusive restaurants and bars hidden in beautiful traditional wooden buildings. Wandering around these streets was both fascinating and frustrating as it is virtually impossible to know what is going on behind the shade of the wooden exteriors. Only a handful of these places give any indication of their nature in English (this is clearly intentional).
We did have the good fortune to stop into an Izakaya (a Japanese-style pub) in this area for some fantastic Yakitori (they had an English menu). This was great, not only because we had a fantastic meal of grilled meats and fish (no bones!!) but also because once we learned the names, we were well armed to enter any Isaacs for tasty meal. We also discovered a new favorite treat - Sesame gelato...yummm! This definitely needs to make its way over to the US.
To continue on the theme of food, we indulged, many times on Sushi at a very tasty Kaiten-Sushi place. This is where the sushi comes around on a conveyor belt. You take any plate that looks tasty and you are then charged for the pile of plates that accumulates by your side. This is a great way to enjoy sushi - that quality is great and it is cheap!!
We also took advantage of our first opportunity to enjoy an Onsen (Japanese Hot Spring). We took a train out of town to a nearby mountain retreat, nestled in elegant Japanese cedars. The bath is set outside, where you soak in hot mineral water while looking over the lush green mountains. It is quiet and still and sooo relaxing. After our bath we trekked to the next town over for our dinner. The town lies along a river and the one street is lined with restaurants which serve their diners on platforms suspended just inches above the water. So you have the cool river rushing beneath you as you dine. Kaiseki is basically Japanese for very expensive meal of unidentifiable dishes!! Seriously, Kaiseki is supposedly the highest form of Japanese cuisine which incorporates elements of ingredients, flavor, presentation and surroundings to create a unique meal. It truly was an experience - the meal was served in about 10 small courses... most of which we have no idea what they were, but they certainly were pretty, and tasty for the most part.
On our last day in Kyoto we took a day trip to Nara, a nearby town rich in historical sites. Nara is most memorable (to us anyway) for its large population of rather vicious deer. They are sacred creatures here and are also rather spoiled, having been fed deer biscuits by tourists for many centuries!! We were, in fact, accosted by a vicious gang of deer upon our arrival (this might have something to do with the stack of deer biscuits we had just procured). Nara is also known for having the largest wooden structure in the world, and it was impressive!!
***********************
Finally Japan
No more spitting to be seen
Clean toilets await
***********************
While we felt it someone unnecessary to expand on the state of bathrooms in China, suffice it to say they were generally quite horrid - 'nuff said. Now before proceeding, we must emphasize that China was amazing and the people were absolutely wonderful, but one cannot deny the start contrast in cleanliness and noise levels between the two countries. So no offense is meant to China by our awe and wonder at the supreme cleanliness of Japan.
Our arrival in Kyoto was like a dream. We could hardly believe the train ride we took from Kansai airport to Kyoto.... quiet, airconditioned, clean, no spitting, no one pushing for seats... it was truly beautiful.
Finding money in Kyoto, however, was quite a trial. As we found out upon our arrival, we could not walk up to any old ATM in Japan to take out cash. A valuable lesson to learn at 12 AM!!
We spent a full week in Kyoto absorbing Japanese culture, food and taking in the sites. So bear with us here, we have a lot to share after 6 days. While we took in a fair number of temples, we spent far more time uncovering the street culture of Kyoto. While known for its historic richness, Kyoto is probably less appreciated by tourists for being a funky, laid back college town.
We spent a fair amount of time wandering the old Geisha district as well as the canal side, Ponchodori street, known for exclusive restaurants and bars hidden in beautiful traditional wooden buildings. Wandering around these streets was both fascinating and frustrating as it is virtually impossible to know what is going on behind the shade of the wooden exteriors. Only a handful of these places give any indication of their nature in English (this is clearly intentional).
We did have the good fortune to stop into an Izakaya (a Japanese-style pub) in this area for some fantastic Yakitori (they had an English menu). This was great, not only because we had a fantastic meal of grilled meats and fish (no bones!!) but also because once we learned the names, we were well armed to enter any Isaacs for tasty meal. We also discovered a new favorite treat - Sesame gelato...yummm! This definitely needs to make its way over to the US.
To continue on the theme of food, we indulged, many times on Sushi at a very tasty Kaiten-Sushi place. This is where the sushi comes around on a conveyor belt. You take any plate that looks tasty and you are then charged for the pile of plates that accumulates by your side. This is a great way to enjoy sushi - that quality is great and it is cheap!!
We also took advantage of our first opportunity to enjoy an Onsen (Japanese Hot Spring). We took a train out of town to a nearby mountain retreat, nestled in elegant Japanese cedars. The bath is set outside, where you soak in hot mineral water while looking over the lush green mountains. It is quiet and still and sooo relaxing. After our bath we trekked to the next town over for our dinner. The town lies along a river and the one street is lined with restaurants which serve their diners on platforms suspended just inches above the water. So you have the cool river rushing beneath you as you dine. Kaiseki is basically Japanese for very expensive meal of unidentifiable dishes!! Seriously, Kaiseki is supposedly the highest form of Japanese cuisine which incorporates elements of ingredients, flavor, presentation and surroundings to create a unique meal. It truly was an experience - the meal was served in about 10 small courses... most of which we have no idea what they were, but they certainly were pretty, and tasty for the most part.
On our last day in Kyoto we took a day trip to Nara, a nearby town rich in historical sites. Nara is most memorable (to us anyway) for its large population of rather vicious deer. They are sacred creatures here and are also rather spoiled, having been fed deer biscuits by tourists for many centuries!! We were, in fact, accosted by a vicious gang of deer upon our arrival (this might have something to do with the stack of deer biscuits we had just procured). Nara is also known for having the largest wooden structure in the world, and it was impressive!!
Sunday, August 14, 2005
Days 31 - 34: Shanghai
Pearl of the Orient... and our last stop in China!!
By this time, it is probably quite evident how much we love the train in China. So, when we found out that the train to Shanghai had only 'hard sleeper' seats left, in a non-air conditioned car (for a 15 hr train ride), we did not hesitate to opt for the 1-hr... cushy plane ride. What a great decision!!
We arrived in Shanghai refreshed and ready to take on the big city. We were definitely looking forward to a dose of city life, a Shanghai did not fail to deliver.
Bright lights, big malls, lots of funky side streets, cool boutiques and cafes aplenty! We spent 3 days just wandering the streets of Shanghai, checking out all the neighborhoods. Everything from the French Concession - with its colonial architecture, grand villas and sidewalk vendors selling the latest US movie releases to the 'Old Town' - a dose of 'real' China within the modern metropolis of Shanghai, and it is truly a different world. As you walk past shiny condos and name brand shops, you eventually cross into a maze of unmarked streets with market stalls, street side barbers and all kinds of life being lived out in the street. Fascinating that in one day, within one city you can pass through two such extremes.
while in Shanghai we saw a performance by the Shanghai Acrobatic troupe, which was truly amazing. Even though we had seen certain elements performed in other venues back home... nothing prepared us for this. The way these people used their bodies.. not just in terms of flexibility, but also in terms of balance, strength, coordination and sheer fearlessness was truly amazing. Many of us have I am sure seen the Ringling Brothers Circus act with the motorcycle in the Sphere of Death... well, these guys had 4, yes FOUR motorcycles whizzing around a sphere half the size of the circus. It truly was death defying... there is no room for error, their practice runs must be rather hairy.
We also saw the Saholin Monks perform, which was great timing as we had just left Shaolin, and they were just starting their run in Shanghai. Though, truth be told, it was far more impressive seeing it at the monastery and watching the kids practice at the camp. The one feat which did not fail to impress us again was where the monk throws a regular needle, like a dart through a pain of glass to pop a balloon on the other side. The force and precision behind that throw is superhuman.
It is hard to believe that our time in China has come to an end... we have had some truly amazing experiences here and have met some wonderful people. While we will miss China, we can't wait for the next leg of our trip to Japan. We are especially looking forward to a change in diet.... a good piece of meat or fish with no bones to navigate through will certainly be welcome!!
With that, we close this chapter of our trip and board our plane bound for Kyoto!
By this time, it is probably quite evident how much we love the train in China. So, when we found out that the train to Shanghai had only 'hard sleeper' seats left, in a non-air conditioned car (for a 15 hr train ride), we did not hesitate to opt for the 1-hr... cushy plane ride. What a great decision!!
We arrived in Shanghai refreshed and ready to take on the big city. We were definitely looking forward to a dose of city life, a Shanghai did not fail to deliver.
Bright lights, big malls, lots of funky side streets, cool boutiques and cafes aplenty! We spent 3 days just wandering the streets of Shanghai, checking out all the neighborhoods. Everything from the French Concession - with its colonial architecture, grand villas and sidewalk vendors selling the latest US movie releases to the 'Old Town' - a dose of 'real' China within the modern metropolis of Shanghai, and it is truly a different world. As you walk past shiny condos and name brand shops, you eventually cross into a maze of unmarked streets with market stalls, street side barbers and all kinds of life being lived out in the street. Fascinating that in one day, within one city you can pass through two such extremes.
while in Shanghai we saw a performance by the Shanghai Acrobatic troupe, which was truly amazing. Even though we had seen certain elements performed in other venues back home... nothing prepared us for this. The way these people used their bodies.. not just in terms of flexibility, but also in terms of balance, strength, coordination and sheer fearlessness was truly amazing. Many of us have I am sure seen the Ringling Brothers Circus act with the motorcycle in the Sphere of Death... well, these guys had 4, yes FOUR motorcycles whizzing around a sphere half the size of the circus. It truly was death defying... there is no room for error, their practice runs must be rather hairy.
We also saw the Saholin Monks perform, which was great timing as we had just left Shaolin, and they were just starting their run in Shanghai. Though, truth be told, it was far more impressive seeing it at the monastery and watching the kids practice at the camp. The one feat which did not fail to impress us again was where the monk throws a regular needle, like a dart through a pain of glass to pop a balloon on the other side. The force and precision behind that throw is superhuman.
It is hard to believe that our time in China has come to an end... we have had some truly amazing experiences here and have met some wonderful people. While we will miss China, we can't wait for the next leg of our trip to Japan. We are especially looking forward to a change in diet.... a good piece of meat or fish with no bones to navigate through will certainly be welcome!!
With that, we close this chapter of our trip and board our plane bound for Kyoto!
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